SproutSmart
SproutSmart Intelligent Garden Sowing

Non-Bolting Red

Family: Amaryllidaceae Vegetable

Planting Schedule

Add Non-Bolting Red to your garden to build a schedule and get reminders.

A vivid, ruby-red bulb with a clean, non-bolting habit—Non-Bolting Red stays true through the cool season, building firm layers that feel substantial in the hand.

Expect a balanced, sweet-on-the-surface flavor that deepens beautifully when roasted, while the crisp texture shines in fresh salads and bright relishes. Grow it for reliable harvests around 90 days, when the skins gleam and the necks settle for easy storage-ready bulbs.

Light: Full SunMaturity: 90 DaysHabit: Bulbing

Botanical illustration of Non-Bolting Red

Planting schedules and alerts are optimized for Columbus (Zone 6b).

Crop Dates

MilestoneDate
Start IndoorsMar 14th
Last FrostApr 25th
Transplant / Sow OutdoorsApr 18th
Harvest BeginsJul 17th
Harvest EndsOct 16th

Crop Details

TraitValue
Days to Maturity90
Sun RequirementsFull SunFull sun
Growth HabitBulbing
Support NeededNone
Planting DepthNormal
Germination Temp (°F)70
Min Soil Temp (°F)45
Min Night Temp (°F)28
Harden Off (days)7

Culinary Notes


Chef's Note

Non-bolting Red is a great red onion pick when you want layers that stay sturdy—less flimsy, more toothy—so they don’t collapse in salads or relishes. The balanced sweetness gives you caramel payoff on the roast without turning harsh, which is why it earns a spot both raw and hot.

Best Uses

  • thin slicing for salads and slaws where the crunch holds dressing
  • roasting whole or in wedges until jammy and deeply browned at the edges
  • quick pickling for a crisp, candy-bright red onion bite
  • slow-cooking into jammy pan sauces or braises for body and color

Flavor Profile

balanced sweetness with a clean allium snap ruby-red, crisp layers that stay firm when cooked sweet-on-the-surface flavor that turns caramel-deep with heat bright, slightly pungent finish

Kitchen Pairings

balsamic vinegar goat cheese thyme black pepper beef soy sauce

Frequently Asked Questions


What pest or disease is most common for Allium cepa (bulbing onions), and what should I do first?
Onion thrips and downy mildew are frequent issues in Allium cepa, especially during warm, humid weather. Remove and destroy badly spotted leaves, then improve airflow by spacing bulbs properly and avoiding overhead watering. For thrips, use a strong water spray to knock them down and apply a labeled insecticidal soap or neem product according to the label, focusing on leaf bases.
How often should I water Allium cepa during the main growing phase?
During active bulbing, keep soil consistently evenly moist but not waterlogged—about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week, adjusted for rainfall and heat. Let the top 1 inch of soil dry slightly between waterings, because soggy soil can trigger mildew and bulb rots. If leaves start yellowing and bulbs are well-formed, reduce watering gradually to help skins dry before harvest.
How can I tell when Allium cepa is ready to harvest?
Harvest when about half the tops have fallen over and the necks are soft-dry, with bulb skins papery and colored. Stop watering roughly 1–2 weeks before harvest to firm skins and reduce rot risk in storage. Lift carefully with a fork, cure bulbs in a warm, airy, shaded spot for 2–3 weeks, and store only fully dry onions.