Yadkin Valley Red

Family: Amaryllidaceae Vegetable

Planting Schedule

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Sweetly pungent and richly red from shoulder to stem, Yadkin Valley Red forms handsome, globe-leaning bulbs with a satiny skin that deepens to garnet as it matures.

The flesh is crisp and juicy, balancing mild sweetness with a savory edge—ideal for bold, colorful roasts, caramelizing, and vibrant fresh slices in salads, as well as striking color in sauces and pickles.

Light: Full SunMaturity: 120 DaysHabit: Bulbing

Botanical illustration of Yadkin Valley Red

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Yadkin Valley Red Planting Dates by USDA Zone

Estimated US hardiness-zone windows for sow, transplant, and harvest. Enter a US ZIP above for exact local dates, or open a zone below.

Zone	Start Indoors	Sow / Transplant	Harvest
Zone 1a	Protected Environment Only
Zone 1b	Protected Environment Only
Zone 2a	Protected Environment Only
Zone 2b	Protected Environment Only
Zone 3a	Protected Environment Only
Zone 3b	Direct Sow	May 19th	Sep 16th – Sep 21st
Zone 4a	Direct Sow	May 15th	Sep 12th – Sep 24th
Zone 4b	Direct Sow	May 13th	Sep 10th – Sep 27th
Zone 5a	Direct Sow	May 8th	Sep 5th – Sep 30th
Zone 5b	Direct Sow	May 4th	Sep 1st – Oct 5th
Zone 6a	Direct Sow	May 1st	Aug 29th – Oct 10th
Zone 6b	Direct Sow	Apr 25th	Aug 23rd – Oct 16th
Zone 7a	Direct Sow	Apr 20th	Aug 18th – Oct 20th
Zone 7b	Direct Sow	Apr 10th	Aug 8th – Oct 28th
Zone 8a	Direct Sow	Apr 1st	Jul 30th – Nov 5th
Zone 8b	Direct Sow	Mar 23rd	Jul 21st – Nov 12th
Zone 9a	Direct Sow	Mar 6th	Jul 4th – Nov 26th
Zone 9b	Direct Sow	Feb 9th	Jun 9th – Dec 9th
Zone 10a	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 10b	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 11a	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 11b	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 12a	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 12b	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 13a	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th
Zone 13b	—	Oct 1st	Jan 29th – Feb 28th

Crop Details

Trait	Value
Days to Maturity	120
Sun Requirements	Full Sun
Growth Habit	Bulbing
Support Needed	None
Planting Depth	Normal
Germination Temp (°F)	70
Min Soil Temp (°F)	45
Min Night Temp (°F)	28
Harden Off (days)	Not Required

Culinary Notes

Chef's Note

This red onion earns its place with a clean sweet-pungent start and a juicy crunch that cooks down into glossy, garnet-stained sweetness. It caramelizes reliably without turning dull, so you can go from raw razor-thin slices to deep-roasted edges and still taste the onion character.

Best Uses

caramelize for jammy, dark-red jam-like onions
slow-roast whole or in wedges until sweet and silky at the edges
raw shave for crisp, high-impact slices with citrusy dressings
quick-pickle for sharp color and snap that cuts fatty meats

Flavor Profile

sweetly pungent bite crispy, juicy crunch savory edge that mellows into caramel garnet-red color that stains and enriches sauces

Kitchen Pairings

balsamic vinegar goat cheese thyme garlic beef stock pork

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I manage onion (Allium cepa) downy mildew or purple blotch if my plants get leaf spots in humid weather?

Watch for grayish/purple lesions on leaves and a fuzzy look from downy mildew, especially after cool, humid nights. Improve airflow by thinning so bulbs have space, water at the soil line (not the leaves), and remove badly infected leaves. If it keeps spreading, use a labeled fungicide for onions and follow the label timing closely, since fungal pressure can return quickly in wet spells.

How often should I water Allium cepa during the main bulb-growing phase?

During active leaf and bulb growth, keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy—aim for about 1 inch of water per week, split into 2–3 waterings if you’re getting less rainfall. Let the top 1 inch of soil dry slightly between waterings, because waterlogged soil reduces bulb formation and increases disease. Once bulbs start enlarging and tops are mostly standing, gradually reduce watering to prevent rot and to help bulbs cure.

When are Allium cepa bulbs ready to harvest, and how can I tell?

Harvest when most tops have fallen over and the outer skins are dry and papery, typically around 120 days. Gently lift a bulb: if the neck is tightened and the bulb has a firm, well-developed shape with fully colored outer layers, it’s ready. Don’t leave bulbs in wet soil after the tops flop—harvest promptly to avoid soft rot.