Siberian Garlic
210d to harvest
Siberian Garlic brings a bold, warming aroma that blooms into a rich, savory flavor—sharp at first, then beautifully mellow. Expect firm, medium-to-large bulbs with a classic hardneck personality: easy to peel cloves and a satisfyingly snappy texture that holds its character for roasting, sauces, and slow-simmered favorites. Grow Siberian Garlic for dependable, long-season performance and the kind of kitchen-ready intensity that makes every harvest feel like a triumph.
Crop Dates
Growing note: Zone 3a has only 109 frost-free days — shorter than this crop's 210-day maturity. Outdoor planting is not viable; use protected cultivation.
| Milestone | Date |
|---|---|
| Last Frost | May 15th |
| Growing Approach | Protected Environment Only |
Crop Details
| Trait | Value |
|---|---|
| Days to Maturity | 210 |
| Sun Requirements | Full Sun |
| Growth Habit | Bulbing |
| Support Needed | None |
| Planting Depth | Normal |
| Germination Temp (°F) | 50 |
| Min Soil Temp (°F) | 45 |
| Min Night Temp (°F) | 28 |
| Harden Off (days) | Not Required |
Recommended Companions
Frequently Asked Questions
What pest or disease most commonly affects Allium sativum (garlic), and how do I stop it?
Garlic most often suffers from fungal basal rot (often seen as soft, brown rot at the bottom of the bulb) and sometimes white rot. Plant only healthy, firm cloves, rotate away from all Allium crops for several years, and avoid overhead watering so the leaves and neck stay dry; if you spot rotting plants, remove them promptly to protect nearby bulbs. Ensure the soil drains well and don’t over-fertilize with nitrogen late in the season, which can make plants more prone to rot.
How can I tell when Siberian garlic (Allium sativum) is ready to harvest at ~210 days?
Harvest when about half the leaves have yellowed and the lower leaves are drying, while the bulbs are still firm and well-filled. Check by gently lifting one bulb with a fork—mature cloves should feel distinct and the skins should be tight around the bulb. If the leaves are still mostly green, wait a bit longer; if the neck is collapsing and cloves are separating, you’re likely past the best harvest window.