Spanish Roja

Garlic

240d to harvest

Rich, papery cloves with a bold, rosy-red blush—Spanish Roja hardneck garlic delivers a deeply savory aroma that lingers like roasted earth and sweet spice. Expect medium-to-large bulbs with easy-to-peel skins, creamy-tender texture when cooked, and a balanced bite that shines in sauces, roasts, and slow-simmered favorites. Grow Spanish Roja for dependable performance and striking color that makes every harvest feel like a small treasure.

Crop Dates

Milestone	Date
Start Indoors	Direct Sow
Last Frost	Feb 9th
Transplant / Sow Outdoors	Feb 9th
Harvest Begins	Oct 7th
Harvest Ends	Dec 9th

Crop Details

Trait	Value
Days to Maturity	240
Sun Requirements	Full Sun
Growth Habit	Upright
Support Needed	None
Planting Depth	Normal
Germination Temp (°F)	50
Min Soil Temp (°F)	40
Min Night Temp (°F)	28
Harden Off (days)	Not Required

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the most common disease issue for Spanish Roja garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon), and how do I stop it?

Watch for white rot (Sclerotium cepivorum), which causes yellowing and sudden plant collapse, often with a white fungal growth at the base and garlic roots. Remove and discard infected plants, don’t compost them, and keep the bed from staying wet—improve drainage and avoid replanting garlic/Allium in the same spot for several years. If you’ve had white rot before, start with clean cloves and keep weeds down to reduce stress during the long 240-day season.

How often should I water Spanish Roja garlic during the main growing phase?

During active bulbing (roughly mid-season), water deeply about once per week only if the top 1 inch of soil dries out—aim for consistently moist but not saturated soil. Stop routine watering when the lower leaves start to yellow and most plants are nearing maturity, so cloves can cure instead of rotting. In heavy clay, reduce frequency to prevent staying wet around the shallow root zone.

How can I tell when Spanish Roja garlic is ready to harvest?

Harvest when about 3–4 of the lower leaves have turned brown and the top leaves are mostly green, usually late in the 240-day cycle. Check bulbs by gently lifting a plant—mature cloves should be well-formed and the wrapper should feel papery, with minimal soft spots. If you wait until nearly all leaves brown, bulbs can split and store worse.